gays adult

well, we will have our bus in a few weeks, & want to drive it to here, take a couple days & convert to veg oil then head to north dakota to work on the inside more till closer to the gathering…
but, we need as much info as possible on what we need to do to convert it b4 we get it here so we can have a;ll the parts ready when we get it here

so, what needs to be done to convert it, what do we need to buy & where can we get everything

as detailed as possible plesase

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thnx
if its a diesel than no mods required, original diesel engine ran on peanut oil and its the same concept as modern ones. all you would need to do is strain the oil to make it as smooth as possible and maybe add some ethanol in the mixture to clean out the gunk in the engine.
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well there is modifications needed, 1 you need a second tank with a heating coil to liquify the oil u need extra filters & theres parts that u need to take off that are emission control devices

yes u can pour oil in & go..in the heat of summer
but for full time use u need to make some modifications

ive heard theres kits u can get?
looks like a great site but still would love info from any1 here whos done it
The Albuquerque food not bombs truck used the greasecar kit (which is about the cheapest kit), which needed a pretty good mechanic to help out on installation. It also doesn’t run great in cold weather, and it ain’t that cold in albuquerque (tho we do get below freezing, just not below 0 ). I would consider the Frybrid kit if you have the extra cash. They have a comparison chart on their website.
everyone seems to be right here
the diesel will run on pure oil, or filtered grease, if the motor is at running temperature. but when you first start it up, it is rarely at that temperature, so you either need to start it with regular diesel, or a mixture of oil/recycled grease and methanol, or, you need to preheat the oil/filtered grease, so that it will be thin enough to run through a cold motor. the motor will heat up after a gallon or two, when you can switch over to your cold grease. the reason you go with two tanks is so that you can either preheat oil in the small tank with some type of electric heater, or you can use it to store diesel or biodiesel.

filtering, and even mixing, your own grease is not hard, but there are many hurdles when you actually live in the vehicle(you damn hippie). to filter the grease when you dont live in the vehicle, you simply heat it up for about a half an hour, while stirring or agitating it. this makes all the vegetable glycerine settle to the bottom, where you will drain it out. to mix this grease with the highly explosive and slightly expensive methanol, you need a tool called a hydrometer, which costs about $80. if you do go that route and reach that point, i can give you instructions on how and why to use this very simple tool.
your main problem you will encounter when you put your system together, is that you are going to have to plan for your worste case scenario, like when you are camped on a moutain top for weeks without running the motor, and it snows and gets cold at night, you have to make sure that your system will in fact start up that bus and run long enough to get you down off the mountain.
you’re saying run it on straight used veggie oil? wow. i looked into the systems to make biodiesel. like put in your NEW oil, (or well cleaned used oil), the systems then add lye and methanol. systems are expensive but can make it cheap (ONLY cheaper than gas/diesel if you use USED oil.. ) rape seed is recommended but that gets pretty expensive. how about "calling" it a veggie mobile and running it on off-road diesel (no tax!) and hope you dont get pulled over by the man seriously, i’d be afraid and cautious to put anything highly flammable into the engine that would cause it to explode or blow a head gasket and leave you stranded. remember, diesels are high compression and diesel #2 (or winter diesel #1) are much less volatile than gas, methanol, other alcohols, etc. bad advice in my opinion. if you can run it on used motor oil, how long can you do that before you need more maintenance or repair? i change my fuel oil and air filter on my car for about $20? I changes my fuel, oil, and air on my ford (diesel) F700 for about $120. i wouldn’t want to increase the $120 filter/fluid change to save a few pennies on old oil. research the biodiesel kits. they’re cool earn their money back over time, help the environment, and ultimately save you.. but really, only if you can get the used oil for free and clean it up first. just google biodiesel kits etc.. good luck on your trip man!
SE,

All these guys are right. I just did the old engine shows here and saw 6-7 SVO Set-ups. Heck 1 was offering it free to someone to dismantle and it happened. I’ve un-installed 3 units myself.

The Cooking Oil gig is now like a 16yr old smoking Cig’s…. Looks, Sound’s, Is Cool…… But not so practical, logical, etc for the long haul. BUT, You can do it for $500 to a kit for $5,000.

I teach people to start fire from water at these shows and think I’ll switch to "how to mix fuel for your MFV Diesel". Had a nice list from the 70’s on exact amounts to mix gas/Motor oil, etc to make EXCELLENT fuel, I’m looking for now. There should be Lots more used oils around when the shit hits than cooking oil……

Good luck on any decision !!!!

Tradin’ Bill a.k.a. Fla_Hippy

PS ( Try "SVO" searches for kits )
Also,

Even the BEST pure Diesel Fuel Freeze’s in the North !!! Truckers add stuff to keep from freezing OR run Kerosene, We called it HOT Fuel and could just add an oil coming off the mountain into warm Valley.

Looking at the Weather.com NOW I see why all my Northern Bus-Hippies got House’s these last few winters :^)

Tradin’ Bill a.k.a. Fla_Hippy
tb im l;oookin at kits all over & findin alotta semi expensive ones that look good but may or may not work with every deisel,
the $500 diy options certainly best but can u give us as much info as u can?
we know theres drawbacks to svo wvo but i think its the best option since its still free , & an svo rig can burn biodiesel too,
can u tell us badsicaluy what wed hafta do to convert for around $500 to $700 which is about what we’re hopingto spend ..if possible
I suggest looking at a few of the Kits for your bus Year/Motor to get an idea. Newer Diesel engines (Age/Motor) & small diesel cars have smaller Injectors and filtering is more important. Older diesels had bigger injectors.

Even though I dont recommend, here goes:

BEST is to:

Have good filters on pump, pumping grease INTO your tank. Better to have a clean tank than trying to filter it coming out of tank (But I do suggest morer filters between tank and factory filters, ie:Water seperator!). Cleaner tank means less chance of gumming up. I cant stress this enough.

Have a second tank

Have (If possible) an in-tank heat exchanger for anywhere north of Atlanta. Now yes I’ve seen folks wrap the fuel line around the exhaust and engine, but this is NEVER recommended by me. Go with cheap 12V line heaters.

Have good valves to shut-off or turn-on the Second tank

These are the basics I see foks having problems with. A zillion good designs on the Net check ‘em out and get some good ideas on cheap tanks, etc for your area. Here in Florida we have discount RV places and its a breeze.

Tradin’ Bill a.k.a. Fla_Hippy
SE, if this doesn’t make sense, then i apologize for not understanding the thread…

#1) you’re going to carry EXTRA fuel with you as you travel, is that it?
–if so, i see used old oil tanks, typically can be had for free or very cheap, on farms they are used to store off-road diesel delivered from co-ops. put a 100 gal in your van, bolt it down to the floor i guess too.

#2) the svo you’re getting is used and you’re going to filter it on the road? don’t underestimate the amount/cost of filters you’d be going through if your using commercially available solutions.
think of fabricating a filtering system.. like old window screen down to smaller and smaller mesh systems followed by a commercial filter.

fyi i couldn’t start my diesel truck (i don’t have glow plugs or plug in engine warmer on the welch/freeze plugs) on a very very cold indiana morning. it took me like an hour of moving a 110,000 turbo like heater pointed at the batteries, then the oil pan, and the fuel tank before i could get it started. i use the Nappa fule conditioner. it’s probably just kerosene, but is the stuff that helps prevent the diesel from gelling and not flowing throught the fuel system..
i was looking at the namad wvo system & like it alot but its not ecxactly cheap

last year there was a thread, i think it wss here, but now dont remember, it was brother who was converting buses & i think had his own lil kit he developed…& he said it would cost about $400-700 in parts (and i think he wsas even offering free help) but i cant seem to find the thread
its an 86 think we can get away without changing injectors?
just an electric tank/line heating system (maybe a combo of electric & coolant) & was already planning on a tripple filter system if we go with a self desiged system

if we can get away with just the heated tank &7 lines & s decent fulel switch & the filters, then i think we can do it affordable
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well what i was looking at was that the fuel neeeded to be hot (180ish) to be thin enough to flow right, but that you can cool the air intake to gain horspower?
weve got only a few weeks to come up with a plan & buy whatever we need

for the prefilter. i mean the wvo filter b4 u pump into your tank, would a multi progressive filter make sence as far as not needing to be changed as often// like if it went through a 10 micron then 5 then 2 instead of the single 2 catching everything each would catch maybe 1/3? or maybe the 10 might catch most so the 2 wont need changimnyg as often//? just wondering..might be worth experimenting with
For DIY conversions, here is probably the most detailed site you will find with links to almost all the other sites:

He sells the very detailed How-to-files for about $80 for the best "package prices" for both the engine conversion, and filtering units.
what is the exact make and model of your motor or bus. that information will help me help you. until that information is learned, any research is futile. if i remember correctly, some fords have problems with vaporlock and some german diesels have problems with injectors.
Currently Kalanu is on myspace:

Frankly if you’re pressed for time and/or money, and don’t have access to a pretty good mechanic, it is probably best to go home-made bio-diesel instead of WVO. That way you don’t have to convert your vehicle, and worry about problems, which if you read the forums seem like an automatic part of the WVO conversion problem. Yes Methanol and Lye are toxic and cost money (but you can do the process slowly and carefully outdoors or in well ventilated areas), but reducing your fuel costs to less than a dollar a gallon is a good start, and homemade biodiesel systems are a lot easier to assemble than all the little intricate auto and plumbing supplies which take time and money to assemble. You can still go WVO in the long-term, almost everyone says it is a slow learning process, and you make mistakes along the way.
I hope that you reall consider what you are about to do before you do it. First, you will lose a lot of power doing this. second not counting the cost to convert you are going to find that you have increased the cost of your fuel ! Don’t listen to all the junk you hear , just another way to get the consumer to spend more $$$ .- the Soutnernhermit and the cool little dog
TRUCKS! on spike tv had a segment on how to do this. there is a way to mix gas and veggie oil to run a gas engine, and there is a system you can buy to do it for you. i suggest checking out spike tv’s website and see if you can get a copy or download.
i think people are missing the spirit of this conversion. although saving money is nice, i think waht eagle is trying to do is make himself nearly independent of the petro-chemical industry, and if done smartly, it will save money in the short term and in the longterm. it is possible. i am also of the opinion that a homemade conversion is much better and more efficient than a ready made, one-size fits most, kit.
eagle is planning on one day pumping used cooking grease out of resteraunts and into his bus, and driving away. it is very possible to do this. he also plans on one day living on the road doing this, which is possible, but there are extra hurdles he would encounter.
filtering your oil is not a real problem eagle, but removing the glycerine is. if you have any of that in your fuel system, once the temperature drops, and it will, you are going to run into serious problems. mixing your own biodielsel is very simple and cheap, it used to cost us a total of 63 cents a gallon, but if you are going to be doing this while you live in the bus, you need to identify what your obstacles are going to be, and how to work around them. because you can get arrested for stealing used grease, and you can blow up or be arested driving around with methanol.
Wow, first time I come on here in like over a year and I find a thread with people talking about me. Ok, here’s the deal, SoaringEagle. Head on over to . That’s the forum site where everyone who knows anything about biodiesel and svo hang out and debate every fine point of every step in the process. More info there than you will ever be able to read.
Here are the pros and cons as I see it betweem SVO and biodiesel. My ex partner and I converted a mercedes to SVO, and we built biodiesel processors for a living. But we were in one place. Our dream was to take the RV and hit the road on veggie, and believe me, if you don’t want a new hobbie, don’t get into homebrew biodiesel. It takes time and at the very worst you could go blind and die huffingthat methanol. Also, you think cops give you the eyeball now, all dreaded out and driving a school bus, just try buying large quantities of lye, which is also an ingredient in crystal meth. One day I came out of a drug store and three cop cars were waiting for us, seperated me and my partner and demanded to know why we had just bought two cases of Red Devil Lye. We told them because the 100% lye product was being phased out and we wanted to snap up what we could while it was still useful. Luckily I had a processor and some of our mailorder kits in the back of the truck to show them. ‘There are more people making meth in this town than biodiesel’ they told me to justify their little sting operation. Anyway, here’s the deal with SVO. You can put a kit together yourself for maybe $700 these days, but you will need to salvage a lot of the parts. You could fashion yourself a pump and go system, but you will need two more tanks in the bus (for a total of three) One is a heated dirty tank, the other is your filtered, ready to go tank. In between are three cartridge filters. This system will run you over $1500 if you want to do it right.
You don’t NEED to do all that (it just simplifies things). For filtering the oil, all you need is a propane burner, a big old cookpot, and some .5 micron sock filters from McMaster Carr. Blue jeans work well too. The only problem you face is water. I always settled my oil for two weeks before filtering and using it, so that water would settle on the bottom. If you are on the road, this becomes harder. Two weeks is a long time. You have to make sure then that the oil you get NEVER has water in it. You can run oil with water, but you run the risk that the water may heat, form a steam bubble, and that steam bubble bursts and scars your injectors. Has happened, but doesn’t always. Not worth the rest in many people’s opinions. Another quick way of getting water out is bringing it up to temp. and leaving it there for twelve hours, but that takes a lot of energy. You can tell if there is water in your oil if you put a thin layer of oil in a pot and bring it up to boiling temperature (of water, not oil). the amount of crackliing and popping you see and hear will tell you how much water you have in the oil. You have to practice with wet and dry oil to get a feel for this method.
So it can be done in a mobile way, all styled out for $1500 or more, or on the cheap for around $750. Check out those forums. Oh, and another thing. there are as many ways of converting an engine as there are people doing it. It doesn’t take a mechanic to do it. I did it and all I knew how to do at that point was change me oil. You just need to do a lot of reading on those forums, figure out what works best for you, and the rest is easy. I am back in canada now, but if you can get up to B.C. my offer of free help still stands at any time.
Kalanu
And building a biodiesel processor is cheap, for sure. If you only have $500 and you want to get started, then by all means. I just don’t like doing it anymore. So that’s my bias. Take it as it is. And when you’re on the road, just where do you get crystal meth ingredients anyway?

Oh, and that feature on Trucks was about a dangerous and overpriced plastic piece of crap called the FuelMeister. Oh, man, people pay $3000 for a system that is completely inferior to something you can make yourself for under $500. Makee me shake my head lots.
I still think that’s bizzare that I decided out of the blue to visit this site today. Perhaps I knew Peaceful had mentioned my name.
That is cool when things like that happen. keep spreading the word.
Just about sums up the spirit of the USA dont it
"SHEE IT Bwoy - if that thang goinna cost more dollars screw the environ ment bwoy its just some dang commie plot to make us retards think and spend - we dont want a clean environment we want cheap chemicals all over our food and givin us cancer and asthma"

hell - telling americans that the economy dont mean shit if aint got a clean environment in which to live is like telling neanderthals theyd better wise up
- if we kill the planet you havent got an economy "

better spend some cash and go a bit slower and pump less deadly chemicals into the atmosphere eh - otherwise there aint gonna be any dollars for you to save

convert everything to bio fuels etc
sentient, you’ve got a point, but I can be a literalistic nitpicker sometimes, and we need not convert everything to biofuels. Oh lordy, what a disaster that would be. Park your fucking car and walk or bike your fat ass is the answer here. turning food to fuel to run some yuppie VW Jetta? Whatever. Like I told Soaring Eagle today, some folks need biofuels, like travelling Rainbows. Yeah I’m discriminating here, but so what. It’s my culture. We need to travel. If we all use biofuels we run out of waste veggie oil in a day. You know we’ve already started to starve out people in third world countries because we’ve pushed the cost of soy and canola and corn up so much? And farmers in North America are growing so much soy for biodiesel already that farmers in South America are clearing rainforest to grow soy for the cattle feed that we’re no longer growing? So let’s not get overzealous with our love of biofuels. It works great for broke hippies like us, but people with money and power need to invest in other solutions and take a good look at the every consequence of there actions because there are hidden costs in everything.
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